Diary Entry #2

July 15^th

Saturday in Tottori! A short walk around the town and an even shorter climb up the local mountain (Mt. Kyusho) was about the extent of our physical exertions in the hot humid climate that is Japan in summer. We strolled the gardens of the JINPUKAKU, a Victorian era house built entirely out of cedar and costing nearly the same amount for its construction as the entire yearly budget of the town of Tottori. This beautiful mansion was built during the height of Japan’s obsession with modernism and the west and it is a strange contrast to wander barefoot (yes, even here!) through a Victorian house with a views of a Japanese garden.

Sir S and I then marvelled at the bizarre creatures ensconced within the Tottori Prefectural Museum, among which were pickled giant newts that looked like they call swallow babies whole, preserved giant squid, and the full assortment of stuffed local wildlife including the Tanaki, a small beast that resembles a raccoon.

Now all of this culture was enough to give a man a thirst, so we headed back to the hotel to refresh before meeting two more locals – Kana and Hiroko – for Izakaya. It just so happened that our Tottori stay coincided with a summer festival and we managed to witness some local J-rock bands performing their hearts out near the station. Their fans were quite amusing. Where one would expect the front row to start a mosh pit, these groupies had a set pattern of hand movements that they all performed in unison. More surprising was that at some point during one of their songs, the crowd suddenly started waving their fans at the band, to great effect.

Most amusing.

What I would like to say about Japan is that they don’t let archaic ideas of machismo get in the way of sensibilities. It is perfectly acceptable for a gentleman to have a fold out fan for alleviating the stifling heat or carrying a small towel for the dabbing of one’s beaded brow. I look forward to the day when western cultures give up on the useless concept of ‘being manly’ over comfort.

But I digress! This is the part of the tale where I enjoy my first (lets just say first three) martinis of my Japanese trip. We took a few rickety stairs up to an unimposing bar called the ODEON. What we discovered upon entering was a delightful room of circular tables, each provided with its own privacy via curtains that surrounded each table. A small button on each table summoned a waiter who quickly and efficiently took our orders and returned promptly with our food/drinks. The food was delicious and the martinis were quite acceptable (and to my pleasure, served in smaller glasses which is more in keeping with the traditional measure of the martini) although lacking any olives.