Tuesday, August 01, 2006

The Onsen




The Onsen

Now the onsen is particularly strange. We have a mixed bath down by the river in full view of all who pass-by (I lie, there was a very small bamboo screen that one could get changed behind, but that was it). As it is, the Japanese have a remarkable ability to not be too concerned about nudity, yet cleverly go about the business of concealing the privates during the entire procedure. One has a little towel – let us call it the modesty towel, although what modesty one can retain when their buttocks is showing is beyond me – with which one uses to firstly cover their genitalia when lounging above the high tide mark, and to drape over ones head when submerged. You use a small tub to slosh hot water over your body (done in a crouched fashion so that ones modesty is supposedly retained) in a vague attempt to wash the daily grime from your body before slipping into the warm pond. And believe me when I say these onsen are warm. The water pouring out from the rock is so warm they have a cold water tap on continuously to cool it down. There is a legend for the area of Misasa (translated from a statue by Hiroki and Kaori), in that a hunter roaming the area spotted a white wolf. He was about to shoot this wolf, but for some reason decided not to and consequently was visited in his dreams but the same wolf who, in thanks for sparing his life revealed the location of the hot springs.

After the soak, we dressed and had dinner. I cannot remember what I ate, for we were all very lethargic after our hot soak, but I do recall trying a small amount of Okonomiyaki (the local version) that Hiroki and Kaori ordered. This is a particularly spectacular dish that I shall go into more detail when I recount of my time in Hiroshima.

This was a fabulous end to the Tottori leg of the trip. The next morning would see me struggle through rain and storm to retrieve my luggage from Koyama before express Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima to meet the delightful Miss Ember. But for now we were very relaxed and I can say that Tottori is a lovely place to spend some time.

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